San Miguel Jan 2011
We have posted
pictures from our first two visits to San Miguel de
Allende that featured many of the beautiful sights, so this time we
thought we would do something different and take you on a walk and show
you a more typical day. SMA is city of over 60,000 with a wide
variety of things to see and do.
This
is our home for the week, Casita 3 at Casa Crayola, 48 Calzada de la
Aurora.
Casa Crayola's seven
casitas surround this central courtyard.

This is our living room, decorated with Mexican folk art.
There is an efficiency kitchen and a small dining table in this room.

And our bedroom. You can see why it was named Crayola.
Mother said
always start with a good breakfast, and it does not get any better than
this. Blue corn tortillas from a street vendor, salsa from the
nearby organic store and eggs with the firmest, roundest, orangest
yolks I
have seen since we raised our own chickens, all served on
plates so pretty they come with holes on the back so they can be
displayed.
Our street
entrance. The beauty of most Mexican casas is hidden behind plain
walls. Notice the new sign with the new name. It seems
the crayon company did not like Carly using their name.
Next door these
ancient trees almost crowd walkers into the street.
Our next door
neighbors, who own the Fabrica Aurora, have a beautiful casa, and the
gate is usually open.
Across the
street things are not so prosperous. The sign says it is for sale.
A few of the
shops on our side of Aurora street as we walk toward the center of town.
The little
laundromat where we get our clothes washed, dried and folded -- very
inexpensively.
The carnitas
shop at the corner of Aurora and Calzada de la Luz
Shops on the
other corner
And a street
vendor on a third corner
Heading down Luz
the sidewalks are narrow.
A Spanish
language school.
Pat giving me
the "hurry up, I'm hungry" look.
Our destination
was
this newly opened restaurant, La Casita, for comida, which is the main
meal of
the Mexican day and is eaten mid afternoon.

The chef (center) also owns the small hotel next door.
While you are well
advised to avoid salads in Mexico, in
SMA the restaurants
understand that you need to wash your greens if you want to keep your
gringo customers.
Black bean soup,
and pasta. I
chose bolognese,
and Pat chose
shrimp alfredo.
Dessert was
strudel with ice cream. All this cost 90 pesos per person, about
$8.

Walking back we
detoured into the Guadalupe neighborhood. This is a middle
class neighborhood near
our casita with
many colorful houses.
A VERY nice
place.
Detail: the gate
knocker.
You do not see
many of these three wheelers anymore.
These ATVs are
popular with young people and a few gringo housewives..
Viva Organica,
our nearby organic grocery and cafe.
We were not
quite sure what was going on in this dress shop.
This little
triangular building in an intersection is now an organic deli.
Just a few
blocks south of Luz, this is the mercado building.
A glimpse into
the mercado.
Pat shopping for
pottery in the artisans' mercado adjacent to the other mercado.
Nearby is Ole'
Ole', a fajita restaurant with bull fight decor. The hole under
66 will soon be replaced with an
electric meter as all utilities in historic SMA are being moved
underground.
Across the
street is a statue of the city's namesake, the Archangel Saint Michael,
or San Miguel.
In addition to
being more adventurous about restaurants, we decided to ride the
bus.
Here comes one now.
We traveled
about 7 miles by bus to the small town of Atotonilco to see this 18th
century
church.
El Santuario de
Atotonilco is known for its frescos and other decoration. It has
been called the New World Sistine Chapel..
Back in SMA we
visited with former Ann Arbor friend and SMA resident Jennifer Butz at
the
cafe she used to own.
Even though we rent a casita with a kitchen, dining out is a big part
of our vacation. We had excellent
meals at Socialitte and El Correo. Our dinner at Cafe Iberico was
a mixed blessing. The tapas menu was
interesting, but a problem in the kitchen delayed our paella for an
hour, then it arrived burned on the bottom.
They comped with a free round of drinks. Our best
dinners were at Mi Vida and Jackie's San
Antonio.
A three course dinner with a bottle of wine costs $30 to $60, a Mexican
dinner with beer is $20.
We attended two musical events, a blues singer (so-so) and the Mexican
Brass. Patterned
on the Canadian Brass, they featured five
top quality players having fun making classical and other music. We
took two bird watching trips - the regular Audubon
Wednesday walk around the El Charco botanical garden and a trip out to
a section of the Rio Lago river. Several new birds for us,
but they were all North American species that can be seen in TX or AZ.
Links to our previous visits to SMA and other trips can be found on our
home page
stevebottorff.com