San Miguel Jan 2011
We have posted
pictures from our first two visits to San Miguel de Allende that featured
many of the beautiful sights, so this time we thought we would do
something different and take you on a walk and show you a more typical
day. SMA is city of over 60,000 with a wide variety of things to see and
do.

This is our home for the week, Casita 3 at Casa Crayola, 48 Calzada de la
Aurora.

Casa Crayola's seven casitas surround this central courtyard.

This is our living room, decorated with Mexican folk art.
There is an efficiency kitchen and a small dining table in this room.

And our bedroom. You can see why it was named Crayola.

Mother said always
start with a good breakfast, and it does not get any better than this.
Blue corn tortillas from a street vendor, salsa from the nearby organic
store and eggs with the firmest, roundest, orangest yolks I have seen
since we raised our own chickens, all served on plates so pretty they
come with holes on the back so they can be displayed.

Our street
entrance. The beauty of most Mexican casas is hidden behind plain walls.
Notice the new sign with the new name. It seems the crayon company did
not like Carly using their name.

Next door these
ancient trees almost crowd walkers into the street.

Our next door
neighbors, who own the Fabrica Aurora, have a beautiful casa, and the
gate is usually open.

Across the street
things are not so prosperous. The sign says it is for sale.

A few of the shops
on our side of Aurora street as we walk toward the center of town.

The little
laundromat where we get our clothes washed, dried and folded -- very
inexpensively.

The carnitas shop
at the corner of Aurora and Calzada de la Luz

Shops on the other
corner

And a street vendor
on a third corner

Heading down Luz
the sidewalks are narrow.





A Spanish language
school.

Pat giving me the
"hurry up, I'm hungry" look.

Our destination was
this newly opened restaurant, La Casita, for comida, which is the main
meal of the Mexican day and is eaten mid afternoon.

The chef (center) also owns the small hotel next door.


While
you are well advised to avoid salads in Mexico, in SMA the restaurants
understand that you need to wash your greens if you want to keep your
gringo customers.

Black bean soup,

and pasta. I chose
bolognese,

and Pat chose
shrimp alfredo.

Dessert was strudel
with ice cream. All this cost 90 pesos per person, about $8.

Walking back we
detoured into the Guadalupe neighborhood. This is a middle class
neighborhood
near our casita
with many colorful houses.





A VERY nice place.

Detail: the gate
knocker.



You do not see many
of these three wheelers anymore.

These ATVs are
popular with young people and a few gringo housewives..

Viva Organica, our
nearby organic grocery and cafe.


We were not quite
sure what was going on in this dress shop.

This little
triangular building in an intersection is now an organic deli.

Just a few blocks
south of Luz, this is the mercado building.

A glimpse into the
mercado.

Pat shopping for
pottery in the artisans' mercado adjacent to the other mercado.

Nearby is Ole'
Ole', a fajita restaurant with bull fight decor. The hole under 66
will soon be replaced with an
electric meter as all utilities in historic SMA are being moved
underground.

Across the street
is a statue of the city's namesake, the Archangel Saint Michael, or San
Miguel.

In addition to
being more adventurous about restaurants, we decided to ride the
bus.
Here comes one now.

We traveled about 7
miles by bus to the small town of Atotonilco to see this 18th century
church.

El Santuario de
Atotonilco is known for its frescos and other decoration. It has been
called the New World Sistine Chapel..

Back in SMA we
visited with former Ann Arbor friend and SMA resident Jennifer Butz at
the cafe she used to own.
Even though we rent a casita with a kitchen, dining out is a big part of
our vacation. We had excellent
meals at Socialitte and El Correo. Our dinner at Cafe Iberico was
a mixed blessing. The tapas menu was
interesting, but a problem in the kitchen delayed our paella for an
hour, then it arrived burned on the bottom.
They comped with a free round of drinks. Our best dinners were at Mi
Vida and
Jackie's San Antonio.
A three course dinner with a bottle of wine costs $30 to $60, a
Mexican dinner with beer is $20.
We attended two musical events, a blues singer (so-so) and the Mexican
Brass. Patterned on the Canadian Brass, they featured five
top quality players having fun making classical and other music. We took
two bird watching trips - the regular Audubon
Wednesday walk around the El Charco botanical garden and a trip out to a
section of the Rio Lago river. Several new birds for us,
but they were all North American species that can be seen in TX or AZ.
Links to our previous visits to SMA and other trips can be found on our
home page
stevebottorff.com